Redness

Dilated vessels and sensitivity.

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What it is: A face that looks red. Flushing that comes and goes is different from fine vessels that are always visible.
Why it happens: Vessels widen or increase in number and show through. A condition called rosacea is behind it more often than people expect.
Where to start: If the redness persists and comes with burning or small bumps, see a doctor first. Rosacea is not a problem for cosmetics to handle.

There are no numbers and no citations in this box. What has been established, and how far, is below.

Redness is a special concern on this site.

Of eighteen procedures here, IPL is the only one with a trial that had an untreated control group. It followed 227 people for two years, and clearance of telangiectasia of 90% or more reached 66.36% against 0%.

One distinction, though. Rosacea is a disease and a clinical matter. Participants in that trial were diagnosed and received anti-mite therapy alongside. A cosmetic cannot claim to treat a disease.

Evidence level

Moderate evidenceAntioxidant

Niacinamide

In a 12-week split-face study of 50 people, 5% niacinamide reduced fine lines, yellowing, red blotchiness and pigmented spots. The control was not nothing but the same moisturiser, and the manufacturer paid for the trial.

Moderate evidenceBarrier lipid

Panthenol

In a three-week study of 23 people on deliberately damaged skin, the reduction in transepidermal water loss was larger than control (−168.36 vs −123.38 g/m²/h, P = .023). What that control was, the abstract does not say.

Moderate evidenceSoothing

Centella asiatica

Centella Asiatica Extract

In a split-face trial of 30 people after laser resurfacing, the side treated with Centella extract gel showed a lower erythema index (coefficient −0.03, P = .046) and better crusting and wound appearance in the first days. Skin biophysics, though, did not differ between the two sides.

Moderate evidenceSoothing

Colloidal oatmeal

An ingredient class — not a single line on an ingredient list

In a double-blind trial of 90 children with atopic dermatitis, an over-the-counter 1% colloidal oatmeal cream was non-inferior to a prescription barrier cream. But all three clinical trials we found came from the company that sells it. And none of them included an untreated arm.

Moderate evidenceBarrier lipid

Petrolatum

A 1997 study proposed using petrolatum as the standard reference substance in irritation testing. And in a 2000 trial comparing 'skin-identical lipids' with pure petrolatum, there was no indication the lipids did better. Recorded here as a case where the expensive ingredient did not beat the cheap one.

Early researchSoothing

Licochalcone A

In an 80-person randomised, investigator-blinded trial, a moisturiser containing licochalcone A was compared against 0.02% triamcinolone acetonide cream. The steroid improved things faster; the moisturiser did better on redness control and hydration. But it was not licochalcone A alone, there was no vehicle-only arm, and after two weeks everyone moved onto the test moisturiser.

Early researchSoothing

Aloe vera

An ingredient class — not a single line on an ingredient list

In a double-blind trial of 12 skin-graft donor sites, epithelialisation was significantly faster: 11.5 days against 13.67. But in the same trial, pain was not significantly reduced. And we found no trial of aloe for cosmetic outcomes — wrinkles, pigment, elasticity.

Ingredient dataSoothing

Alpha-bisabolol

Bisabolol

The Korean listed amount is 0.5%, the lowest of the nine whitening actives. But we could find no human trial comparing this ingredient on its own against vehicle. What turns up are studies of multi-ingredient formulas.

Ingredient dataOther

The 25 labelled fragrance allergens

An ingredient class — not a single line on an ingredient list

Korean regulation names 25 fragrance allergens and requires that, above a set threshold, they be written out by name rather than folded into the word 'fragrance'. The thresholds are above 0.01% in rinse-off products and above 0.001% in leave-on products. All 25 are transcribed below with their CAS numbers.

Not establishedBarrier lipid

Ceramides

An ingredient class — not a single line on an ingredient list

In 39 children with atopic dermatitis randomised three ways, a ceramide barrier cream, another prescription cream and an over-the-counter petrolatum ointment did not differ, and the petrolatum was at least 47 times more cost-effective. Applying emollients to newborns to prevent eczema also failed in a Cochrane review.

Medicines used for this concern

Medicines are not listed alongside cosmetic ingredients. Dosage and whether a prescription is needed are settled in consultation.

Moderate evidenceAzelaic acidOver the counter — ask the pharmacist

Clinical procedures related to this concern

Procedures are not listed alongside topical ingredients. They are not something you use at home.

Moderate evidenceIPL (intense pulsed light)Device-based
Moderate evidenceVascular laser (pulsed dye laser)Device-based
Early researchMesotherapyInjection
Early researchExosome treatmentDevice-based
Early researchLED phototherapyDevice-based