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Arbutin: a listed whitening active in Korea, but the trial we found is a 30-person pilot of a combination

The Korean listed amount is 2–5%. In a split-face pilot in 30 people with melasma, alpha-arbutin 5% plus kojic acid 2% did not differ from a prescription triple-combination cream on objective measures, and relapse was worse on the triple-combination side.

Last checked Sep 16, 2026

In pregnancy
Not established
Irritation
Low
Daytime use
✓ Fine

Not a measurement — reported irritation grouped into five steps. It varies between people.

Korean classification Listed functional-cosmetic activeVerified against: 기능성화장품 심사에 관한 규정 [별표 4] 자료제출이 생략되는 기능성화장품의 종류 — 식품의약품안전처고시 제2025-88호 · Checked on 2026-09-16

Arbutin is a hydroquinone glycoside found in bearberry and related plants. In Korea it is a listed whitening active, so it turns up on labels often.

Being a listed active and having a thick body of clinical evidence are different things. The trial below tested a combination, not arbutin alone, and it was a pilot.

Contents
  1. The Korean listed amount for whitening is 2–5%
  2. No difference from a triple-combination cream on objective measures — a 30-person pilot

What is established

The same ingredient at a different strength, in a different formula, is a different product. These are the conditions the studies used.

Ingredient dataConcentration studied 2–5%

The Korean listed amount for whitening is 2–5%

It is one of the nine whitening actives in Annex 4, item 2 of the Regulation on the Review of Functional Cosmetics, at 2–5% — alongside broussonetia extract at 2%, niacinamide at 2–5%, alpha-bisabolol at 0.5% and others.

Within that range a product can be filed for the claim without submitting its own data. That means 'filable without data', not 'works at this concentration'.

Early researchConcentration studied 5% · cream

No difference from a triple-combination cream on objective measures — a 30-person pilot

A split-face randomised pilot study in 30 people with melasma. One side received a cosmetic with alpha-arbutin 5% plus kojic acid 2% (AAK), the other a prescription triple-combination cream (TCC), for 12 weeks with 4 weeks of follow-up.

On melanin index (MI) and modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI), there was no difference between the groups (p = .268 and p = .344). Physician global assessment improved only on the triple-combination side (p = .032).

But relapse was more severe on the triple-combination side (MI p = .004, mMASI p = .045).

Three qualifications. The authors call it a pilot; there were 30 participants; and what was tested was not arbutin alone but a combination with kojic acid. There was no vehicle arm either.

Hence early research.

  • Randomised controlled trial in people · 30 participants · 16 weeks · Compared with another active ingredient · Funding not declared · Endpoint scores from blinded assessors PMID 39555866

How to use it

  • Sunscreen is the precondition. Nothing in pigment management works without it.
  • There is no evidence that exceeding the listed range (2–5%) scales the effect.
  • Pigment moves slowly. The trial above ran 12 weeks.

Cautions

  • Arbutin is a hydroquinone glycoside. Hydroquinone itself may not be used in cosmetics in Korea — do not read the two as the same thing.
  • Melasma often warrants medical care. Persisting with cosmetics for months may be slower than talking to a clinician.
  • We found no established data on use during pregnancy.

With a new ingredient, apply a small amount somewhere inconspicuous, such as the inner arm, for two days first. Stop if it reddens or stings.

Related skin concerns

Pigmentation

What this article relies on

  1. 기능성화장품 심사에 관한 규정 [별표 4] 자료제출이 생략되는 기능성화장품의 종류 — 식품의약품안전처고시 제2025-88호식품의약품안전처 · 시행 2025-12-16 · Checked on 2026-09-16
  2. PubMed — 미국 국립의학도서관 문헌 데이터베이스National Library of Medicine · Checked on 2026-09-16